In order to be understood by all and to speak the same language, below some elements of technical and traditional vocabulary concerning the constitution of a trunk or old rigid luggage.
Definition: luxury trunk
We recognize a high-end trunk both by the nature of the materials used and by the quality of its manufacture. It is neither more nor less the patina that is created and not the aging of the materials. For this reason, a luxury trunk like those of Louis Vuitton, Goyard, Moynat even after several decades, abandoned in an attic, will regain its letters of nobility after a good cleaning or a small restoration.
Bottom / Bottom : Underside of the bowl of a trunk, garment bag or box.
Top : Upper face of a trunk lid.
Front : Vertical side of a trunk, garment bag or box that is in the front in the flat position. The face of a piece of luggage usually bearing the lock and buckles.
Back : Vertical face of a trunk which is located opposite the front in the flat position. Face of the luggage generally carrying the hinge.
Dimensioned : Faces being on both sides of the front, one generally finds there the handles and initials, one speaks then about right side / left side.
Barrel: Structure of the trunk comprising the bowl and the lid, rigid support for a travel item which will be wrapped in a covering.
Cup: Lower part of a piece of luggage connected to the cover which is folded down and adjusted by the hinge.
Lid : Upper part of a piece of luggage which is connected to the lower part (bowl) by the hinge.
Canvas : Weaving of threads forming a weft, this fabric also called weave is coated to make it rot-proof and protect the content from moisture.
Latte : Strip of nailed wood which reinforces the barrel, variable number to reinforce the rigidity of the faces and protect them from shocks.
Edge : Consolidates and protects the edges, also called angle iron (can be: leather, iron, lozine, brass ...)
Handle : Part adapted to the shape of the hand, used to move an object: bag, briefcase, suitcase, trunk, etc.
Minimum two for a trunk, only one for a suitcase (can be leather, iron or brass).
Spikes : Small nail permanently fixing the edges to the barrel.
Corner : Metal or leather accessory intended to externally protect the corners of a trunk or luggage. (can be leather, brass, steel, lozine)
Square : Metal accessory in the form of a square, intended for the protection of angles and used to hold the slats at their ends.
Loop : Part attached to the barrel allowing the maintenance of a strap or leather strap (can be leather or brass)
Belt (headband) : Reinforcement in the form of a rigid ribbon, fixed externally on the cover of a trunk or a clothes rack, which fits onto the top of the belt of the bowl to perfect the tightness of the luggage .
Strap (for trunk) : Leather band provided with a roller buckle that is stretched to attach, hold or tighten something. Placed outside, it goes around the trunk, sliding through passers-by.
Dome : Metal accessory attached to the back of luggage, often for suitcases. These small feet protect against friction on the ground.
Nesting : Part of the top of the bowl that fits into the lid. This part is often made bevelled, or pushed into the barrel in order to ensure a tighter fit and therefore a better seal.
Enchape : Leatherwork term designating the leather part connecting the handle or handle to the body of the baggage.
Lock : Metal accessory intended to ensure the closing by means of a key of various articles such as trunk, suitcase, box, case, necessary, briefcase, travel bag ...
The lock generally consists of three parts:
- The palâtre on which is fixed the case which contains the mechanism.
- The hasp, articulated piece which comes to engage in a recess a plaster.
- The key.
Hardware (Jewelry / Goldsmith): Essentially in brass at Louis Vuitton, it includes among others: lock, clasp, wedge, nail, buckle, square, handle ...
Rivet: Cylindrical shank, one end of which, called the "head", is round, flat or more or less convex, and the other of which is crushed or pushed aside during the riveting operation, thus preventing its withdrawal.
Cap (rivet) : Metal part with a flat or slightly domed top of the upper part of a tubular rivet.
Nail : Metal rod, pointed at one end, used in carpentry and used to fix two pieces of barrel. The nails of the old Louis Vuitton trunks are engraved.
Attachot : Flat metal part provided with a longitudinal slit, fixed on both sides to the lid and to the bowl of a box or baggage, intended to hold the lid by limiting its opening towards the rear.
Spring buckle and lever: Metal accessory intended to ensure the junction of the cover to the bowl of a clothes rack or a box, to bring together the two parts of a wardrobe or to close the door of a secretary.
Strap buckle: Metal accessory used to secure the two parts of a strap.
Body (loop) : Metal part representing the largest part of the spring loop that is fixed on the baggage compartment. It is from this body of the loop that the ring which surrounds the stud leaves to ensure the closure of the luggage.
Strictly speaking, a lock is not used to "close" a trunk or a suitcase, which is the role of "clasps".
The purpose of a lock is to give the owner of the object security on its content by a more or less improved connection.
A lock is made up of two distinct parts fixed, one on the cover and called a "hasp", the other on the shaft and comprising the "palâtre" on the outside and the "mechanism box" on the inside.
Hasp : Upper part of a lock, generally fixed on the front of the lid of a trunk, suitcase, box, etc. And the articulated part of which is folded back on the palâtre is provided with an inn which receives the bolt.
Hasp buckle : Movable metallic piece of flat or semi-circular shape, joins the hasp to the palate of the lock.
Auberon (or Aubron): Small metal part in the form of a trigger guard fixed to the underside of the hasp loop, which passes through the palâtre and in which the lock bolt engages, it is a form of keeper.
Plaster : Lower part of a lock. Metal plate usually attached to the barrel of a trunk. At the back of it is fixed the lock mechanism. It can be fitted with a post.
Tenon : Metal accessory attached to the lock's pallet, intended to guide and maintain the interlocking of the hasp to the lock.
Lock box : Metal part of the lock fixed to the plaster and containing the lock mechanism.
Groove : Metal parts mounted on a pivot, raised to a certain height by the rotation of the key bit.
Key : Metal part used to open or close a lock.
Key rod : Which can be solid or drilled to thread on the axis of the lock.
Panneton : End of the key of various shape which penetrates into the lock and activates the bolt of the lock. Its pattern, cut to match the keyhole and the fittings, or grooves of the lock.
Frame: Interior accessory of a piece of luggage occupying the entire interior surface. These frames are stackable and can be deployed all around the trunk in order to have isolated access to the objects contained. We can distinguish three types of frame, stretched, full or crossed.
Padding : The inside of the cover is padded, covered with a fabric stretched to the ceiling by a studded ribbon spider, highlighting the unbleached canvas coverings.
Upholstery : Lining or covering the interior of a piece of luggage, from the simplest to the most luxurious materials, there is a wide range of interior coverings.
Interlining : Laying of the rib. Reinforce a room by gluing a canvas to it. The purpose of the interlining is to stiffen a thin and flexible material or to remove the lending of excessively stretchy skin. Applied inside and outside a barrel, it strengthens it.
Rubanné : refers to a box or a light trunk or briefcase frame, the bottom and sides of which are made of crisscrossed ribbons of fabric, leaving small voids between them. Mainly used for hats transport.
Cleat : Piece of wood of small rectangular section used to support, fix, wedge a frame or a tray in luggage.
Strap (inside) : Narrow band of flexible and resistant material (canvas, elastic fabric) generally provided with a loop and which is stretched to attach, hold or tighten something inside the luggage.
Frame (wardrobe) : Nickel-plated metal part located in the upper part of the wardrobes and used to hang the coat racks.
Curtain rack : Interior accessory specific to the equipment of large wardrobes. Frame-shaped accessory made of wooden slats and fabric that is hung on the support frames of coat racks and intended to compress clothes during travel.
Cabin trunk : Series of flat trunks with chassis,
the height of which is less than 390 mm
Length and width valid according to the louis vuitton, goyard and moynat brands
Explorer trunk: Explorer trunk covered with metal: Zinc - Brass - Copper - Aluminum for exotic countries, explorers and adventurers
Aluminum trunk : Trunk for explorer, at that time aluminum was very expensive to produce due to its chemical process, considered a precious metal , it was then more expensive than gold.
Automobile trunk : Trunk used as a car trunk at a time when cars did not have a trunk integrated into the body.
Trunk Wardrobe : Series of trunk-type trunks opening vertically in two parts. This type of trunk is fitted internally with a man or lady locker section and a man or lady wardrobe section. These trunks can be any wardrobe or any lockers.
Aero trunk: Series of cabin type trunks, ultra light trunk . Full, it weighs only 26 kilos, it was designed and studied for air travel.
Rectangular shaped luggage, generally between 40 and 80 cm long, made to be carried in the hand.
- 45 ° bevel throat closure.
- exterior band
- interior chassis.
Bisten : Rigid luggage series from the Louis Vuitton Monogram line, whose interior height of 160 mm is constant, whatever the length and width
groove closure pushed into the barrel
straps in the bowl
round handle with 4-hole glides.
A series of rigid luggage from the Louis Vuitton Monogram line, with a constant interior height of 130 mm, whatever the length or width.
Throat closure pushed into the barrel
round handle with 2-hole shoe
Diplomatic attaché case
The vanity is a rigid lozine hand luggage, which appeared in the 1950s.
It was renamed "beauty-case" in the 90s.
is dedicated to the woman , her beauty and her coquetry.
Crowns symbolize the power, protection and social status of its owner.
Each country has its codes, illustration of the crowns in France.
Solid wood : A compact vegetable substance from inside the trees formed of cells, fibers and vessels, carrying the raw sap.
The main woods used in the manufacture of trunk are poplar and beech.
Beech : Smooth bark tree with white wood, hardwood, from French forest used for the manufacture of the edge and bottom slats and certain coat racks and interior fittings of trunks.
Mahogany : Precious red wood
Poplar : Deciduous tree of great height giving a white, flexible and light very resistant wood used for carpentry and packaging. Wood par excellence of baggage historically, it constitutes the main part of the barrels of the traditional rigid line.
Plywood : Material in okoume, beech, birch or poplar wood obtained by assembling a number of thin glued sheets alternating the direction of the fibers. The plywoods used range from 2.5mm to 18mm thick.
Lozine / Vulcanized fiber: Material obtained by stratification of cotton and cellulose fiber, after passing through a bath of zinc chloride and sulfuric acid. The fluid is extracted by pressing, which allows the various fibers to be bonded together without adding a binder.
Thanks to this process, lozine has extremely high mechanical strength, flexibility and stability, combined with low weight. Perfectly insulating the lozine guarantees a perfect seal of the luggage.
Not to be confused with "flexoid " laminating cardboard used in the automotive industry
Copper (CU) : Copper is a mineral naturally present in the earth's crust.
It is RED in color.
Often confused with brass.
It is a soft material. It is mainly found on the nails and rivets of leather trunks.
Also some very rare trunks are entirely covered with copper strip.
Oxidation of copper gives it a brown patina, and verdigris if the copper is too exposed to moisture.
Brass : Brass is an alloy mainly composed of copper and zinc.
It is YELLOW in color.
It is a soft material. It is strongly present on Louis Vuitton, Goyard, Moynat trunks for locks, clasps, handles, nail heads and rivets, points, corners, brackets ...
The oxidation of the brass gives it a brown patina. Do not confuse with bronze and brass.
Zinc (ZN) : Zinc is a blue-gray mineral.
Widely used for the roofs of Parisian buildings, it has good water resistance.
it is present on the underside of some trunks and most leather-sheathed cover belts. Other more anecdotal trunks were completely covered with zinc.
Zinc oxidation gives it a darker patina but keeps its gray-blue color.
Iron (FE): Iron is an ore mainly used in the form of alloys, used at all times.
It is a hard material, it is present on the trunks. Very rarely visible, it is in the structure, such as the constitution of the lock, springs, nail and rivet bodies, rivet washers, batten reinforcements, shank nails. The main constraint is rust.
Unlike brass and copper, iron corrodes, forming rust (orange in color). This corrosion weakens it.
Leather or skin has been used since time immemorial in saddlery, leather goods, luggage, sheathing, clothing and shoes. It has exceptional mechanical properties ...
We help you recognize the type of leather.
Goat leather (morocco):
The goat has a particularly strong and resistant to traction skin. The flower has durability. It also has a pretty fine grain and very tight pores. This is due to the fact that the goat sweats by the tongue like dogs and not by the pores of the skin. On the other hand, there are small skins that limit certain uses. Rather high-end leather goods are used in small leather goods, sheathing and binding.
There are several decorations on the leather that we call "grain" here are the main ones, at the beginning of the last century it was a great success and was at the forefront of fashion:
Grain dust succession of crossed lines forming small dots. Maison Cartier, for example, uses it to cover all of its red leather cases adorned with gilding.
English grain succession of crossed lines forming small squares.
Long grain forming a pattern. Louis Vuitton renamed this motif: Epi leather
Either with a hot iron, or you do this to the plate with pressure. (like crocodile skin after being polished with Agathe they are plated)
Indian goat, by the market which is English.
The cowhide leather has a fine grain. The leather is dense and the fibers are tight, which guarantees a solid, reliable leather, resistant to traction and elongation.
Pork is difficult to find in France since it is eaten with bacon. it is a very marked grain leather recognizable by the fact that it is pierced at the locations of the bristles. With a certain decorative effect, it is a leather of great strength.
Pig leather was widely used in the 1920s by the greatest leatherworkers (Hermes, Vuitton, etc.) for the manufacture of refined leather goods.
In order to meet the demands of the populations banning the consumption of pork (notably Judaism and Islam) pig leather has ceased to be used.
Their uses are more anecdotal, however they are present on certain exceptional luggage.
The fish . Salmon, shark, beluga ...
The skins of rays, once worked, bear the name of shagreen. They are used for the manufacture of boxes, marquetry, sheathing, jewelry ...
The crocodile :
Crocodile skin is only used for very luxury items.
Only the belly part is used, the too thick and rigid back is not used.
Available in shiny finish (not very flexible), and mat finish (very flexible)
Lizards and snakes:
For leather goods and shoes, their use depends on the "fashion" of the moment.
Quite fragile and very flexible. not to be confused with shagreen.
The elephant :
Rare leather, It was used in the making of trunk and is still used in the making of leather goods, and watch straps. Very resistant leather.
These skins are characterized by a very marked and characteristic grain. This grain is due to the passage of feathers through the skin.
Lexique : French page
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