In this article we will explain how to make a mail or cabin trunk to decorate your home.
This article is not intended to teach you how to restore a collector's trunk , nor to make a replica of a Louis Vuitton, Goyard or Hermèstrunk which requires skills and know-how. The goal is to support you in the manufacture of your tailor-made box according to your tastes, to make your dreams come true. This trunk will have the advantage of being made with your own hands, it will be unique.
You will find 3 separate paragraphs that will help you build your trunk from A to Z:
In each of its paragraphs you will find the calculation method in order to buy the right quantities, professional tips, tips for smart shopping, decoration ideas ...
The manufacturing steps for this trunk were simplified so that even a beginner handyman could complete this project with a minimum of hand tools. All supplies are available in your DIY store, specific supplies are available on our online store >> .
And even if this tutorial is not for professionals, they will modestly introduce you to the know-how of the trunk maker thanks to our expert tips, you will surpass yourself and obtain an exceptional result. Your entourage will be bluffing!
This tutorial is completely Free.
In order to have a common language here is the vocabulary describing the elements of the trunk.
Every project starts with a sketch or diagram to determine the design you want.
The design is related to the elements you are going to use.
This sketch will result in a detailed plan. Even if you are free to free yourself from the codes, if you want your trunk to be proportionate here are some basic rules:
Lid thickness: The thickness of the lid is low, it is a lost storage surface. It is determined by the choice of having corners, brackets and the presence of a peripheral belt which traditionally guarantees the tightness of the trunk.
Attached are some examples.
In order to help you calculate the size of your cover below a very precise notice. depending on the items you are going to add to your trunk. It is imperative to know the exact size of your jewelry (corners, and brackets)
1 Corner (without square) : These thicknesses are the minimum size of the lid. It is quite possible to have a corner put in and have a thicker lid.
The minimum height of the cover is the inside dimension of the corner.
1 corners + bracket (Without belt)
or
1 corner + square (With Belt)
The minimum height of the cover is the combination of the interior dimension of a corner + the width of the bracket.
Note : The corner, does not cover the square of the belt.
Belt width : the width of the belt is determined by the size of your lock, and your angle brackets.
Our corner brackets are 29, 36 mm or 42 mm.
Remove 8 mm if there is a belt, it is the dimension of the sealing socket which makes the trunk waterproof.
You can also add a finishing bracket, this one is not fixed on the lid but on the bowl (lower part of the barrel). In addition to adding a decorative side, it serves to stop your border and is also a reinforcement. It is not mandatory and does not impact the thickness of the cover.
Clasps : The clasps are placed at the ends of the trunk. Usually the axis of the clasp is between 9 and 16 cm from the edge, depending on the length of the trunk. The most common being 10 cm. For a small trunk or suitcase it will be rather between 6 and 9 cm from the edge.
Wood slats:
Front : Unlike the other faces, the positioning of the wooden slats on the face is fairly free, only the 1st slat is always under the lock (between 0.5 cm and 2 cm). The others are free, the spaces between these slats are rarely equal.
And the space between the floor and the 1st batten is often smaller than the other spaces.
Rear : The wooden slats are placed at the same heights as the front of the trunk
Top: space between each wooden slat:
( Trunk depth ) - (28 x Number of slats )
_____________________
Number of slats
Nails : The space between each nails on the slats is 8 to 12 cm.
Border : their width depends on the choice of the corners of your trunk:
The tips are 5mm from the edge and spaced 10-20mm apart.
Favor spacing with a round number to facilitate marking.
Handle : the handle is placed in the center of the side at 1/3 of the height
We suggest different materials, which will guarantee you an optimal result. But of course you are free to choose others.
In order to obtain the dimension of the barrel if this trunk must fit in a fixed space, remove 25 mm from the height, 35 mm from the width and 40 mm from the depth. These values correspond to the thickness of the elements placed outside (wooden slats, nails, etc.).
Height - 25mm = (H) x Length - 35mm = (W) x Depth - 40mm = (D)
It's up to you to determine the exterior dimensions of your trunk:
For wood, we recommend plywood
Manufacture of a Trunk: 12 mm thick.
Manufacture of a suitcase, box, Vanity, mini trunk, box: 8 mm thick.
Price found: 25 to 45 euros / m2
Plywood offers the advantage of being light and very resistant. Also, it is soft which makes it easy to rivet or staple nails. (unlike medium that is too hard, or chipboard that is too fragile)
Note : 12 mm is a good thickness for a trunk for stapling nails, also to embed the lock, taking a thinner thickness will be problematic and too fragile. Taking a greater thickness will weigh down the trunk and cost more.
For a suitcase 8 mm or 10 mm is sufficient.
If you are not equipped with a circular saw, we advise you to buy the panels directly cut to the right size. All major DIY stores offer this wood cutting service.
Height = H
Width = W
Depth = P
Wood thickness = Ep
Cover thickness = Co
Saw blade thickness = Sc
Debit wooden panel trunk with belt
The axis of the hinge is therefore offset so that the lid can open, despite the presence of a bracket.
Designation | Ref | Width (mm) | Length (mm) | Truckness (mm) |
Above | A | = P | = L | = Ep |
Front cover | B | = Co - Ep | = L | = Ep |
Lid side | C | = Co - Ep | = P - (2 x Ep) | = Ep |
Lid side | D | = Co - Ep | = P - (2 x Ep) | = Ep |
Rear cover |
E |
= (Co + 8) - Ep | = L | = Ep |
Shaft side | F | = H - Co - Ep | = L | = Ep |
Barrel side | G | = H - Co - Ep | = P - (2 x Ep) | = Ep |
Barrel side | H | = H - Co - Ep | = P - (2 x Ep) | = Ep |
Rear barrel | I | = H - (Co + 8) - Ep | = L | = Ep |
Below | J | = P | = L | = Ep |
Example : if your trunk measures:
Height (H) 0.5 m (= 500 mm) x Length (W) 1 m (= 1000 mm) x Depth (D) 0.30 m (= 300 mm)
Panel thickness (Ep) = 12 mm
Cover thickness (Co) = 72 mm
Tip : Since wood is a natural material which "works", i.e. it will not stay straight like a sheet of glass, it will make small curves invisible to the eye, but if we checked the flatness of the surfaces with a metal ruler there would be variations. Variations which can be accentuated in the case of the lid and the barrel which must fit perfectly. The trick lies in making a first cut per side + a saw blade thickness (Sc).
(B+F+Sc) and (G+C+Sc) and (H+D+Sc) and (E+I+Sc).
Then mark one side of each panel with chalk or marker (for example a diagonal), this mark is used to avoid inverting the direction of each panel. After having marked them, all that remains is to cut it at the level of the opening joint of the trunk.
Variant without belt:
If you don't want to wear a belt, use these calculations instead
(change on lines E and I):
Designation | Ref | Width (mm) | Lenght (mm) | Thickness (mm) |
Above |
A | = P | = L | = Ep |
Front cover | B | = Co - Ep | = L | = Ep |
Lid side | C | = Co - Ep | = P - (2 x Ep) | = Ep |
Lid side | D | = Co - Ep | = P - (2 x Ep) | = Ep |
Rear cover |
E |
= Co - Ep | = L | = Ep |
Shaft side | F | = H - Co - Ep | = L | = Ep |
Barrel side | G | = H - Co - Ep | = P - (2 x Ep) | = Ep |
Barrel side | H | = H - Co - Ep | = P - (2 x Ep) | = Ep |
Rear barrel | I | = H - Co - Ep | = L | = Ep |
Below | J | = P | = L | = Ep |
Example : if your box / suitcase measures:
Height (H) 0.28 m (= 280 mm) x Length (W) 0.4 m (= 400 mm) x Depth (D) 0.30 m (= 300 mm)
Panel thickness (Ep) = 8 mm
Cover thickness (Co) = 48 mm
Tip trunk / suitcase without belt : You can make the barrel closed then once assembled glued, nailed, glue dry.
Cut with a circular saw or spindle moulder your box. Be careful not to position nails where the blade will cut at the risk of damaging it.
Variant Suitcase / Trunk that can be opened in two after assembly (without belt):
Sc : Thickness of the circular saw blade enabling the box to be opened in two after manufacture.
Designation | Ref | Width (mm) | Lenght (mm) | Thickness (mm) |
Above | A | = P | = L | = Ep |
Face | B - F | = H - (2 x Ep) + Sc | = L | = Ep |
Right side | C - G | = H - (2 x Ep) + Sc | = P - (2 x Ep) | = Ep |
Left side | D - H | = H - (2 x Ep) + Sc | = P - (2 x Ep) | = Ep |
Back |
E - I |
= H - (2 x Ep) + Sc | = L | = Ep |
Below | J | = P | = L | = Ep |
The wood will be covered on the outside, the possibilities are multiple:
If it is a patterned canvas, remember to calculate the surfaces taking into account the direction of installation, the fittings, see also to center the pattern on each side.
If it's leather you won't buy a perfect rectangle, there may be flaws right in the middle of the hide. So if the total surface to be covered is 1 m2, do not buy 1 m2 + 10% waste, it is not a liter of paint.
Leatherworker's tip : Make the cutting templates (patronage) in Craft paper or thin card (0.3 to 0.5 mm cardboard) in order to place them on your skin to optimize the cuts while avoiding defects, this is the layout plan, and thus buy the right quantity of leather.
If your trunk is large, you will need to use several skins.
We recommend the cow and the sheep which, unlike the goat, offer large surfaces.
We recommend chrome tanned leathers which offer a wide choice of color, resistance and flexibility. This noble material will offer a result superior to other materials without being so much more expensive.
In addition, it works quite easily, is more suitable for collages than cotton canvas or a synthetic coating and it will age better too.
Exterior coating thickness:
It will be necessary to wrap up inside the lid so make sure that the chosen coating will be flexible enough to fold over the thickness of the barrel (Thick), i.e. 12 mm + 20 mm rim.
In the lower part, the coating will be glued over 20 mm.
Note : the underside of the trunk can be treated with a material other than the visible sides, especially if you are using an expensive material.
Good plan: cover a trunk with leather, favor destockers and end of series.
External fabric flow (mm) | |||
Designation | Ref | Lenght | Lenght |
Above | A | = P | = L |
Front cover | B | = Co + Ep + 20 | = L |
Lid side | C | = Co + Ep + 20 | = P |
Lid side | D | = H - Co + Ep + 20 | = P |
Back |
E + I |
= H + 5 + 20 | = L |
Shaft side | F | = H - Co + Ep + 20 + 20 | = L |
Barrel side | G | = H - Co + Ep + 20 + 20 | = P - ( 2 x Ep ) |
Barrel side | H | = H - Co + Ep + 20 + 20 | = P - ( 2 x Ep ) |
Below | J | = P | = L |
Example : if your trunk measures: Height 0.5 m (= 500 mm) x Length 1 m (= 1000 mm) x Depth 0.30 m (= 300 mm) and Panel thickness (Ep) = 12 mm.
Cover thickness (Co) = 72 mm
The wooden slats make it possible to stiffen the support, but also to give character to the trunk.
For the reinforcement slats, use "2 rounded champlats" - 5 x 28 mm
The width of 28 is perfectly suited to our angel brackets 29 x 105 mm.
You will easily find it in your DIY store, the price observed:
The slat runs the entire length of your trunk = (L).
For the slats under the trunk, "sharp edges": 4 mm x 38 mm
You will easily find them in your DIY store, the price observed:
Unlike the wooden slats above, these champlats will be under the trunk. Their size therefore has no impact on the jewelry or on the manufacture of the rest of the trunk.
The lengths are = (L) and (P), quantity x2
All the woods can be left raw, but also be varnished, waxed, stained or painted according to your tastes and desires.
The angles protect the edges of the trunk, they arenailed with small spikes.
They can be of the same color, of the same nature as the coating or of another color to contrast, and even of another material, we recommend leather which offers a luxurious finish, ease of implementation. But they can also be made of brass or vegetable leather, chrome leather, leatherette, painted cardboard...
Note : Lozine is not marketed, don't be fooled, we have seen several unscrupulous sellers offering flexoid at 470 euros / m2 as if it were lozine. Flexoid is a laminated cardboard that has no relation to lozine. Are true price is 9 euros / m2.
Border thickness:
If your leather is too thick, you can have it split by a leather worker, if your leather, leatherette, wallpaper ... if they are not thick enough you can stick them on: split leather, cardboard or a other material of the same color so as not to have to process the finish of the edges.
Cardboard border tip: If you use painted cardboard, 2 coats are enough, no need to varnish it if you used a washable paint.
If the cardboard is tinted you can just varnish it to waterproof it.
Idea : you can also have leather printed with your logo, several sites offer these services online.
Thanks to Jean-Marc for this very nice idea
For the manufacture of your trunk, you will need:
Angle / edge flow (mm) | ||
Designation | Lenght | Quantity : |
Lid | = P | x 2 |
Lid | = L | x 2 |
Lid | = Co | x 2 |
Lid | = Co + 8 | x 2 |
Was |
= H - (Co + 8) + Ep | x 4 |
Example : If your trunk measures: Height 0.5 m (= 500 mm) x Length 1 m (= 1000 mm) x Depth 0.30 m (= 300 mm) and Panel thickness (Ep) = 12 mm.
Cover thickness (Co) = 72 mm.
Definition - brass-plated steel:
The steel part is covered with a thin layer of brass, the thickness is between 0.003 mm and 0.0003 mm.
The layer of brass will naturally oxidize, and the steel below will also. We quickly understand why these pieces cannot keep their beautiful golden appearance over time. Simply cleaning the brass will remove it permanently.
You will spend time making your trunk as well not to regret it by the choice of low-end materials such as brass-plated steel.
The brass massive meanwhile offers quality and a resistance to any test, even if you scratch. It may tarnish, but will not rust , so you will be able to regain the bright yellow color very easily throughout its life.
Finishing of your jewelry stores.
It is important that all of your jewelry is of the same nature. If your lock is gilded brass (i.e. gold plated), it is imperative that your nails are as well.
On the one hand because polished brass does not have the same color as golden brass, and above all they will not age in the same way, as you can see on this suitcase where part of the jewelry has been gilded while another was not.
If you want a golden, nickel-plated, red gold, palladium or other finish, it is important to have all of your parts treated by the same subcontractor, because each treatment bath has its own formula so if you take two parts treated by two different companies you will have two different colors. And once on the trunk the result will be unsightly and disappointing.
We recommend polished brass without any hesitation, because golden brass will not take on any patina, while polished brass offers exceptional reflections and color. Even today, it is no coincidence that the jewelry on Louis Vuitton trunks and suitcases are in polished brass.
You will need to choose:
Clasps (also available in 3 sizes FB-S / FB-M / FB-XL)
The two most common types of installation for a lock or a clasp are:
Trick of trunk maker: In order to put any clasp or lock in all situations, you just need to cut a leather shim of the missing thickness to position at the top or bottom depending on the configurations.
Definition : Flat metal part provided with a longitudinal slot, fixed on either side to the lid and to the bowl of a box or luggage, intended to retain the lid by limiting its opening towards the rear.
Embedded in the thickness of the wood, or placed directly against the wood, it is an ingenious system for your trunks and boxes. Our fasteners are equipped with a brake (to prevent the lid from falling once opened.) The curved part is against the wood.
x2 handles
Mallet nails
We have a wide choice of trunk nails, unlike upholsterer nails, trunk nails are not only decorative, they are also structural.
You will need nails for:
To help you make your choice, here is the image of the different designs that can be obtained on the same corners 52 mm and 26 mm as well as the same brackets 36x105 , with different nails more or less domed with different head diameter .
How to use trunk nails?
Malletier is an ancestral craft that has existed since ancient times. The use of nails is just as old.
The interest of trunkers' nails and that the same nails can be used in 3 very different ways: Nailed - Stapled - Riveted
The nailed method is the simplest.
The nail allows at least two elements to be fixed together. In the case where the thickness of the wood is greater than the length of the rod, for example at the ends of the trunk.
Carpenter tip:
This technique is used when the thickness of the wood is reduced, it is exactly the same system as a paper stapler.
This assembly is very resistant.
It is mainly recommended for assembly: brackets, corners, wooden stick...
Note : it is important that the rod is well nailed with the wood, a just twisted nail will not hold.
It will be two in most cases, on one side a person who holds the head of the other a person who holds the hammer.
Tip if you don't have a dowel:
To staple your nails without being in possession of a dowel used a "pile" in metal (For example a hammer head (in hardened steel)) and put a piece of leather, cardboard or thin wood between the metal and the nail head.
It is important that your nail head is not damaged.
Also there is no point in hitting like a brute, 10 small necks are better than 2 large ones. The nail should not go into the material, but in a moderate way.
This technique of permanent fixing is widely used in the 19th century allowing a very resistant assembly. Thanks to a counter rivet (washer) the end of the nail is cut then matted in order to create a rivet. This assembly technique is recommended for highly stressed parts, such as the lock, clasps, handles.
But it requires a certain experience for a perfect mastery of the gesture, as well as specific equipment (bouterolle, riveting hammer...). For this reason, we will not discuss the implementation of this technique in this tutorial intended for a general audience.
Professional riveting tools.
Custom-made snaps for each type of nails sold in our shop. The rivet is a tool with a rounded head in which the head of the nails is positioned. There is therefore 1 rivet per nail reference.
The rivet is essential if your nails have a surface treatment so as not to mark the head during riveting. You are an industrialist, you want to equip yourself with a snap, consult us. We have a standard of each in stock, other models can be developed according to your needs.
These flat head nails will be used to make the barrel, as well as to nail the rods under the trunk.
Pro tip: the rule in carpentry is to tierce the assemblies, so you will need x 3 the thickness nailed to get the length of the suitable nail.
Our panel is 12 mm (Ep), so the length to choose is 35 mm.
We recommend 1.8 x 35 mm nails.
Trunker's tip : these nails can be stapled like brass domed head nails, use the steel pile to hold the flat head of the nail.
These nails will be used for:
Domed head point in solid brass , to nail the border or loziner.
The opening compass ensures the opening of the lid. There are a large number of aperture compasses on the market:
Fabric strap : €2
Even if unsightly it is possible to use 2 straps which will keep the lid open. However, they will often get stuck between the lid and the barrel when closing.
Economic steel versions : €5 per pair
Installation of ties
Traditionally the attachments are embedded in the wood by 3 mm. The notch is made with a router. The precision of this notch does not matter, it will be hidden by the plates.
It is possible to replace the notch by adding a 3 mm plywood board, cut with a jigsaw to create a recess in the wood.
It is even possible to do without the notch (it all depends on the level of requirement.) because in fact the complete system is 2 mm thick.
Each installation is unique, because it depends on the type of square, the thicknesses of wood...
Traditionally the attachments are riveted. The top rivet is caught in the bracket of the belt. The bottom rivet is positioned on a case-by-case basis.
It is strongly recommended to make a small wooden template representing the lid and the bowl. In order to make the layouts and thus obtain the right dimensions. And location of the rivets.
The laying technique is as follows:
1/ position the nail on the cover (which is normally the corner bracket) (drilled and nail slightly inclined in order to pull and press the bracket)
2/ once these nails are positioned. Trace the location of the cover (it must be 2 mm under the rolled edge covering) covering the inside of the trunk, passing through points (A) and (B) which can therefore be tilted.
3/ draw an offset axis of 5 mm (as in the diagram)
4/ the bottom nails must pass through this axis, when you open the lid the opening must not exceed 90° (so I recommend 85°)
5/ Ideally, the clip is 3 mm between the bracket and the corner of the cover so as not to damage the future coating.
Universal hinge.
We recommend stainless steel models from Hettich: 30 x 80 mm
Available at Leroymerlin price: 2 to 3 euros / piece
You can put any other universal model whose dimensions are:
Maximum length: 100 mm (50 + 50) x Width = indifferent
The quantity depends on the length of the trunk (L):
They can be in steel, stainless steel or brass, they will be covered by the canvas. These hinges will be stapled with male head nails.
Now that you have chosen, purchased and cut your materials. It's time to go to the assembly:
This crate will be glued with white wood glue and nailed with 35 x 1.8 mm flat head nails.
Note : to avoid splitting the wood, nail at least 4 cm from the edge.
Pro tip: Tracing the thickness of your panel on the face where you nail will help you center the nail.
Warning : if you have chosen the opening calipers, you will have to cut the panels inside before assembly.
Carpentry tip: nail at an angle alternately, this assembly will be self-tightening like the dovetails.
After gluing, generously sand all the outer edges to create a rounding with a radius of approximately 5 mm. This rounding allows you to have a nice rounding when you install the Loziné borders, it will also help you when installing the brackets and corners to have a perfect junction.
It can be done with a wood grater, sandpaper (grosgrain between 40 and 100), a sander, a router... It is not necessary to have great precision, just break this sharp edge.
Note : depending on the thicknesses chosen, chase your nails to avoid damaging your tools.
Glue each side in the following order:
Note : We recommend placing the metal hinges under the covering. They will be more discreet. It will be more aesthetic than putting them on the canvas. (9)
Pro tip: The edges of the trunk will be covered with the borders, only the thickness of the wood will be seen, we suggest miter cuts at 45° in the angles, like the sketch opposite.
Gainier's tip : Use a CB format plastic card (loyalty card, old blue card, telephone card, etc.) as a "smoother" to smooth the canvas in every nook and cranny and avoid creases.
Attach your hinge 70 mm from the edge, the knot on the outside.
Pro tip:
Temporarily place 2mm assembly shims between the barrel and the cover when positioning the hinges to ensure perfect operating play.
If you have chosen to turn the borders over the thickness of the wood of the trunk without embedding it (see lozinage tip), you will have to add the thickness of your border in addition to the thickness of the wedge.
The borders are nailed successively with brass points.
Leatherworker's tip : it's easy to point your borders
Use a dry-tipped compass and draw a line along the edge of your leather 5mm from the edge. Then using a ruler and a small nail point each point location. In order not to have to do any calculations, we recommend a spacing between each nail of 10 mm or 20 mm.
For nailing we recommend our L2.5 nails with a length of 10 mm. They are adapted and will not go through the wood (if it is 12 mm + coating thickness + edge thickness).
Tip : In order to simplify the installation, you can use thin double-sided tape 4 or 6 mm in width to be placed 8 mm from the edge so that it does not interfere with the installation of the points. This tape is not intended to secure the element, only to hold the border while nailing.
Trunk maker 's tip: To nail the spikes, use a blunt-ended hammer that won't mark your surface when nailing.
Of course used a hammer suitable for woodworking, for example a roofer's hammer, the pointed end is very practical for laying slate, but perfectly unsuitable for making a wooden chest.
Finishing of the borders at the level of the cover.
1 - If your trunk does not have a belt, it is better to put a finishing square to stop your border.
We recommend symmetrical brackets: 36 x 105 mm or 16 x 58 mm
2 - If your trunk has a belt, the trick is to cut the outer covering with a cutter in order to embed the border on the thickness of your trunk, so the border will not take on any additional thickness.
The peripheral belt giving character to the trunk can be painted, or dressed in leather or canvas.
It consists of 3 elements: the reinforcement , the wedging , the covering.
The belt is based on your corner brackets with a final width of 36 mm or 42 mm. In the example below we will talk about the 42 mm. But of course you can apply the same method to the 36 mm belt.
Thickness of the assembly including wedging: 4 mm
Belt thickness without wedging: 3 mm (see diagram)
Of course it's case by case, you can adjust the thicknesses of the different elements so that the thickness of the belt is 3 mm.
Example :
Reinforcement 0.5 mm + (2 x trim 1.25 mm): 3 mm
Reinforcement 1 mm + (2 x covering 1 mm): 3 mm
2 mm reinforcement + (2 x 0.5 mm covering): 3 mm
Reinforcement 2.8 mm + (2 x 0.1 mm paint coating): 3 mm
Reinforcement :
Thickness :
Leatherworker's tip : For a decorative trunk, the reinforcement can be made of Texon or 1 mm thick rigid cardboard.
Width :
The final width is 42 mm so deduct 2 times the coating thickness to obtain the dimension = 42 - (2 x coating thickness)
Belt length:
= Left side + front of the trunk + right side
Wedging:
The wedging is essential for your trunk to open and close, it is made of 1 mm cardboard
Dimension: Belt length x 30 mm x 1 mm
Dressing:
Dimensions: thickness 0.5 mm and 0.8 mm x width 84 mm x belt length
Pro tip : check that the coating bends perfectly, reduce the thickness if necessary.
Bonding in 3 steps:
1 - Glue a 30 mm x 1 mm cardboard on the reinforcement
Neoprene glue is perfectly suited for everything that is bonding cardboard, canvas and leather.
2 - Glue the covering on the reinforcement 18 mm from the edge
As the attached plan
3 - stick the back of the belt
Trunk maker tip : if your leather or canvas is smaller than the total length of the belt make the joint in the center (where the lock will be fixed)
If the reinforcement is made of metal, you can fold it in 2 angles. (thanks to a vice and 2 wooden calles so as not to damage the coating)
Drill the belt and the wood of the cover with a 2 mm drill, then drill only the metal belt with a drill 0.5 mm larger than the diameter of the rod of your nail.
If the reinforcement is made of cardboard, you can fold it easily by hand.
Method of laying trunk nails spaced about 4 cm apart, stapled laying. The nails are 15 mm from the top edge.
Before installing the wooden sticks, they must be machined, each end of the stick must be machined according to the attached plan.
You can make these cuts with a circular saw, or with a hand saw, a wood grater, a router, a router or a sander depending on your equipment.
The strip is fixed with trunk nails, stapled.
At each end a brass square 29 x 105 mm
The slats below are fixed with man head nails stapled to the bottom of the trunk.
Installation of clasps
Tip: In order to install any clasps or locks in all situations, all you have to do is cut out a shim of the missing thickness to be positioned at the top or bottom depending on the configuration.
The wedge can be leather, wood, or even leather-covered wood. It will have the shape of the clasp or the lock or even be larger with another decorative shape.
Pro tip : close the trunk and put your clasp in the closed position. This way it will be perfectly positioned.
Installation of the lock
Regarding the lock, there are 2 types of installation:
Carefully measure the size of the safe and cut out with a saw or router or by drilling a multitude of holes the location of the safe, leaving 3 mm clearance.
Pro tip : Just like the clasp, fix the lock in the closed position (do not leave the key in the trunk), this way it will be perfectly positioned.
Placement of corners
Trunk maker 's tip : to place the corners it will be necessary to break the angle with a grater, or a sander, or a hand saw.
Tip :
To make your trunk move easily, glue felt glides in the four corners. We strongly advise against casters that scratch the parquet, as well as any other metal part.
How to put leather handles on your trunk?
Pre-drill all the holes in accordance with the manufacturer's dimensions.
Gradually nail the 4 nails of the loop at the same time so that it is positioned perfectly.
the handle must be able to be taken (hand passage behind). But also being able to lay down to take up minimal space when not in use.
How to put a label holder on your trunk?
The label holder is made of leather, it can have a flexible plastic window to protect the paper label.
It is nailed with the same points as that of the border L.2.5
Trick of trunk maker: place the label holder 3 mm under the belt, so the label cannot be raised without the trunk being opened.
In order to further represent you, you can:
So many customizations that will make your trunk even more unique.
Your exterior is now perfectly finished, all you have to do is line the inside of your trunk.
For ease of implementation, we advise you to stick paper, fabric or suede on cardboard supports, and to nail these panels inside the trunk.
You will find a large number of tutorials on cardboard on the Internet.
Your trunk is now finished, before a well-deserved rest!
All that remains is to pamper everything, thanks to our brass maintenance product , you will give a homogeneous color to the brass and will remove the fingerprints made all throughout the manufacturing process of the trunk.
Thank you to JM, Fabiola, Deroy... for these superb photos, do not hesitate to send us your creations so that they complete this article: malle2Luxe@gmail.com