RESTORATION OF TRUNK JEWELRY STORES

JEWELERY & GOLDSMITHS

 

The jewelry or goldsmith is all the hardware, mainly in brass, which is found in  leather goods ,  saddlery  and briefcase.

Workshop malle2luxe restore trunk Vuitton

It includes among others:

  • Locks
  • Clasps or buckles
  • Handles
  • Nails or rivets
  • Corners or angles
  • Squares

These jewelry stores are sometimes damaged, our role is to remove accidents along the way by restoring them to their original appearance and  function.

 

Louis Vuitton, Goyard and Moynat had taken care to patent their models of locks, clasps ... We only remanufacture the damaged elements and not the entire part. It would be quicker to replace the whole with a "generic" replica part of new artisanal manufacture as it abounds on the internet.

 

Adaptable spare part generic replica trunk old vuitton collection copy

These adaptable  spare parts do not have their place on a collector's trunk, without any patina, worse some are more or less faithful copies, reproduced without agreement with the brands, they are not authentic and the quality is different from that original.

  • In the case of a part that has been the subject of a patent, we may be faced with problems related to industrial property.
  • In the case of a "design" part (shape and design), we may be faced with problems related to intellectual property.
  • Sometimes the illegal use of the brand's logo.

These copies are detrimental to the value of your collector's trunk.

 

This is where  our profession of restaurateur takes on its full meaning:

12 mm solid brass louis vuitton nail engraved trunk

Restoring is starting from a damaged genuine part  and completing only the deteriorated elements while retaining a maximum of original elements, without replacing all of them. Obviously it is much longer but during a restoration time does not count only the result matters. We also buy Louis Vuitton, Goyard , Moynat "wreck" trunks . For example a trunk where the canvas is missing or too damaged to be restored . These trunks then end up in pieces to supply our stock.

 

In extreme cases where the part is missing, we can then replace it with an old, authentic part of the same generation and of the same model. The guarantee to offer the most beautiful authentic restorations of luxury trunks.


L. VUITTON REGISTRATION

Many brass or steel pieces are marked " Louis Vuitton ". None of the parts that we manufacture or elements of restoration bear an inscription at the risk of being assimilated to counterfeit. We remind that only the Louis Vuitton company has the right to affix its mentions.

Even if rarer it is the same for Goyard and moynat only they are allowed to put their name on an object.


LOCK

brass jewelry vuitton trunk lock and its brass studs

The top-quality trunks are closed by   extremely robust "non-pickable" locks, the multigrip mechanism of which is patented, as indicated on the locks themselves.

 

Each lock has a number corresponding to its own key. This number is unique for each trunk, unless a customer wishes to open all their luggage with a single key. The locks are placed separately on each piece of luggage, at mid-length, exactly under the leather strap or under the handle. These locks protect the contents of the luggage from thieves and curious visitors.

Brass lock the corner trunk vuitton boutique

 

Lock buckle

Example of a lock whose buckle was cut to open the Louis Vuitton trunk. Our core business is the restoration of old trunks. In order to  keep the authenticity  of the piece we will  keep 100% of the pieces  present and 

Louis vuitton toilet kit lock brass lock repair

Hasp

The  hasp  is the top part of a lock.

This part is often broken because forced when the key is lost.

We repair them, keeping 100% of the original parts . it is the work of the goldsmith ...

  

Interior Louis Vuitton trunk lock system

Mechanism 

The locks of the trunks that pass through our workshops are ultrasonically cleaned and revised ...

Louis Vuitton old brass key

Key

The oldest  keys  are in steel, then they will be in brass for the most by Louis Vuitton luggage. Often lost or broken we are asked to redo them.

 

Repair of an old key for old luggage without a key:

  • Original old Vuitton key.
  • Machining in the existing in order to add material, the piece tightened welded.
  • Finishing to give a second life.

 


DUST COVER

Louis vuitton tumbler lock automobile trunk

Some elements are missing, so we are working to restore only the lost part and not to replace the entire lock with a "standard" product of lesser quality and not genuine.

 

Example with this automobile trunk dust cover, Vuitton automobile trunks and luggage were placed behind the cars, and this small rotary valve protected the mechanism from dust.

 

We cut the piece from solid brass, taking care to faithfully respect the characteristics of the original.

 

After restoration the result is perfect, ready to be put back on the trunk.


BUCKLE - CLASP

The locks are framed by two   matching buckles , the model of which is also patented. This closure system is characteristic. The solid brass elements that compose it are the support of various registered markings, involving the initials or the name of Louis Vuitton, Goyard or Moynat.

Moynat trunk lever

 In order to keep the original part as much as possible, we only repair the missing part.

 

Example with this Moynat trunk lever. We soldered brass and shaped this raw part so that it finds its full utility. It is the work of the goldsmith who shapes the brass.

Louis vuitton cabin trunk clasp in brass corner

In some cases, the lever is completely missing:

  

On this cabin trunk and on this Auto Louis Vuitton trunk, a   clasp lever is missing.

 

We are going to carve our clasp identically in a block of brass. 

 

 

  

Unlike cast parts, parts cut in the mass are much more resistant.

 

Vuitton trunk machining

Tracing: 

Trace 2 projections (view A and B) on our solid brass block following the Vuitton model. 

 

Sculpt:  

Carve the massive piece the old fashioned way and by hand.

This work requires a lot of time, precision and a real know-how of a metal sculptor.

 

Fit & finish:  

After adjustment, the part is ready for finishing, and always by hand, sanding, then polishing, it remains to make  the  brass ring .


SQUARE

It is not uncommon to find brass or steel hardware eaten away by rust and oxidation, some tinker with them by brushing them with paint or body spray. A good hideous misery.

Manufacture of brass or steel brackets for louis vuitton and goyard trunk

These accessories have a real reinforcement function and participate in the structure of the trunk.

 

There is therefore no choice but to replace them. These articles do not exist in the trade with the right dimensions we must remake them identically as well by the nature of the steel, as the thickness, the shape and the finish.

 

Cutting

In a sheet of steel, cut the elements with shears. The sheet is thick.

 

Manufacture of machining parts in brass or steel trunk louis vuitton and goyard

Deburring

Deburring, and adjustment.

 

Chamfer

Then we make a small chamfer as at the origin.

 

Drilling

Then drilling

 

Folding

Folding 

 

Finish.

Black finish and lacquer 


 

HANDLE

The contemporary handles are cut in cowhide left in its natural color.

The old handles are in black painted metal on the oldest models with a so-called "Moorish" finish, in brass or even in leather. 

brass polishing with automatic 3D laser machine

 

The handle is the contact zone between the hand and the luggage, it is often the part of the trunk that is most exposed to stress and touch. Resistant and sensitive, its own material becomes inseparable from its patina.

 

Example of a solid brass handle restored in our workshops. Coming from a Louis Vuitton trunk from 1902. Totally broken, broken tie and missing handle. Brass is a very delicate material to shape and solder.


 

NAIL & RIVET

8mm and 12mm studs louis vuitton authentic trunk trunk

 

The nails and rivets are essential elements in the construction of a trunk

 

A trunk is made up of several hundred nails or rivets, their location is not linked to chance. It has been expertly studied by the house of Vuitton, Goyard, or Moynat.

 

They securely hold all jewelry, slats and other elements to the barrel (ie to the structure of the trunk).

solid brass louis vuitton nail head solder for trunk

A disassembled rivet can no longer be used because it becomes too short

 

So we have to weld a new steel rod.

 

The weld must be perfect because the forces exerted during the matting of the rivet are very important.

 

Our know-how as a boilermaker allows us to weld the nail heads to new rods.

restore an old Louis Vuitton trunk nail in brass

Stapled nails are straightened, cleaned and restored.

 


SURFACE TREATMENT

chrome nickel plated vuitton nails lv trunk
 

In the case where the jewelry stores have a surface treatment, as on certain automobile trunks or interior of wardrobe trunk ...

 

we have our authentic antique jewelry treated identically to the origin.

 

This treatment is carried out in Paris by our friend and partner Bertin Aubert .


POLISHING TO RE-SHINE YOUR BRASSES

 

Once the technical parts have been repaired and revised, we proceed to cleaning and polishing, aesthetics and cosmetics of the lock.

 

Historically, all the brass of Louis Vuitton, Goyard, Moynat, In the United States, Aux Tourists, Rotival, Hermes trunks were polished to a high gloss. Just like the brasses of porte-cocheres, luxury watches, family silverware, fine jewelry ...

The brass of the luxury trunks are maintained and polished by the house staff or their owner.
Hermes ring silver jewelry polishing
Our job is to find the original condition of the luggage before its last trip. It is not to find a new trunk or a new brass, just to find the condition of the luggage if it had never been abandoned and if it had been maintained throughout its life.

Polishing allows you to find the original glossy finish. The small strokes on the brasses are preserved, we only remove the oxidation, the dirt.

 

Polishing is a profession in its own right, requiring great precision. The craftsman highlights all the brass pieces by restoring their original shine and fascinating shine. The work of the goldsmith polisher or the art of sublimating a piece.

shiny polishing vuitton trunk solid brass clasps

There are a multitude of processes:

  • Ancestral  as the use of:
    • Goose feather
    • Coal
    • Grinder
    • ... etc
  • Latest cutting edge technologies :
    • Micro projection (micro-blasting / diamond fluids)
    • Mechanical pre-polished (rotating barrel)
    • 3D laser
    • Ultrasound
    • ... etc

So many technologies to combine to remove oxidation without scratching surfaces.

 

Whatever the technological choices, the gestures require great thoroughness and dexterity for a perfect result.

brass polishing lasers trunk vuitton trunk
Polishing is a succession of steps. From eight for a brass of oxidized origin, to about twenty when it has been brushed with a nylon, metallic or brass brush. The preparation is long, a stage badly accomplished and all that has to be started again.

 

It is a work of patience where the result is admired by playing the light with the reflections of the shiny metal. Remove only the oxidation, polish without deforming the metal and without leaving any trace of oxidation, even in the corners.
Perfect shiny mirror polishing is then an art.
recognize a good polishing of brass trunk Louis Vuitton

Example of a Louis Vuitton trunk purchased by one of our customers. He asked us to "resume" all the restoration of the trunk including the polishing of the brass because entrusted to the wrong person.

We resumed the flatness, then polished in order to remove the engravings made by the brush. Now the surface is perfectly smooth and shiny.

 

The nylon brush used completely plowed, deformed the surface, a massacre ... 

 

financial additional cost which the customer would have gone well. These marks caused by a brush are not marks of use and are not part of the soul of the luggage, it is just the damage of a bad restoration.  


ANOTHER EXAMPLE OF POLISHING CARRIED OUT IN OUR WORKSHOP:

 

Atelier - laiton : French page