How do you know if a trunk is valuable?

old Louis Vuitton trunk expertise estimate

We receive many emails from people wanting to know the value when buying or selling their Louis Vuitton , Goyard or Moynat trunk. This article aims to help you do that. We lift the omerta  on  indelicate practices,  we point out  the vices  and we  denounce the pitfalls to avoid,  to  educate future buyers , in order to  fight against the destruction of the heritage that affects the world of collectible luggage .

Also It is common to confuse expertise, estimate, certificate of authenticity, revelations on an abuse of language.



There is no fixed price , we are not on a general public market where prices can be referenced as in real estate (estimated price m²) and used cars ( argus ). There is no established price for old trunks. And finally the price of an old trunk or second-hand item has no connection with the price of a new one at Louis Vuitton. The price of the second hand depends on many factors that we will try to list.

argus rating price of a louis vuitton trunk

We regularly receive offers for a trunk or  suitcase  for a much higher amount than our retail price from individuals misled by an advertisement issued by a "joke" offering a trunk 10 times more expensive than the prices we charge. .It is therefore important  not to confuse the sale price displayed and the price sold , because any seller is free to display the price he  dreams  of obtaining . Except the  fair price of your trunk  is the one you imagine AND that a buyer is able to accept. Keep in mind that a good sale must satisfy both seller and buyer. If you are a seller and your  price is right, we can purchase your trunk as it is at the best price:


Used trunk specialist

Only the Louis Vuitton, Goyard, Hermès and Moynat brands  have a collection value. The absence of a marking on the trunk indicates that your property does not belong to one of these 4 brands.  


Typical anonymous trunks:

Although they may still be perfect for home decor,  they  have no collector's value . Their price is very low and rarely exceeds  500 euros  for the most beautiful models due to the low reputation of their manufacturer and their lower quality. These brands, which are strongly inspired by the design of luxury trunks, are of particular interest to those who dream of owning an old Louis Vuitton trunk without having the means to do so.

Used trunk specialist louis vuitton

Example of auction results: 

  • Anonymous trunk , with a lot of doll accessories. 
    Estimated 120 - 250 euros. 

    Result of the sale: 120 euros
  • Ancient anonymous curved trunk . 
    Estimated 40 - 60 euros. 
    Result of the sale: 40 euros
  • Trunk Pigot (anonymous)
    of good size resembling to be mistaken a Louis Vuitton checkerboard collection trunk. 
    Estimated 300 - 500 euros. 

    Result of the sale: 300 euros


Rarity exhibition trunk louis vuitton

Value is a function of demand, which itself depends on rarity. But a very rare trunk is not necessarily very expensive, the collection and financial values can be decorrelated. There are as many special cases as there are trunks to study, for example:

  • In general, a special order is more sought after than a standard trunk.
  • Even a very rare black trunk will have less value than a standard trunk with a monogram canvas.  
  • The more drawers and interior fittings it has, the higher its price will be.
  • A luxury trunk with a domed lid  often has sentimental value from its owners. But have  no collection value. Even signed  Louis Vuitton, Goyard, Moynat. Too archaic, of "rustic" wrought iron manufacture, the value of its trunks has no comparison with flat trunks.
old domed trunk estimate

Example of the sale in Paris  of a domed Moynat trunk. Estimated 300 - 500 euros.

Result of the sale: 300 euros 


Louis Vuitton trunk serial number book

The date of manufacture has only a very small impact on the value of a Louis Vuitton trunk. The age of the trunk does not necessarily increase its value, it is even the opposite:

  • A gray Trianon trunk   from 1870 will have an archaic construction and therefore less value than a more accomplished 1920 trunk that respects the brand's standards and image.
  • On the other hand, a trunk from 1920 is more valuable than a modern  PVC canvas  trunk today.


Dimensions of Louis Vuitton trunks. Old flower trunk

Apart from a few special cases such as the flower trunk , the rule is rather simple and logical:  The larger the trunk, the more expensive it is. mail trunk therefore costs less than a wardrobe trunk but more than a cabin trunk. 


Louis Vuitton trunk to restore wardrobe bad condition

This is one of the key factors, the more restoration work required to  restore the original state  , the lower the price will be.


For this reason, the same Louis Vuitton trunk can be worth between €1,000 and €5,000 depending on its condition. Only trunks in perfect condition have valuebecause a restoration costs from 3,500 euros for a simple cleaning to more than 15,000 euros for a major restoration as in the case of this partially destroyed wardrobe trunk restored in our workshops.


Louis Vuitton trunk to restore

Of course, if possible, favor trunks in perfect original condition. But unfortunately, the states of origin are increasingly rare, because these trunks have travelled, been badly stored, sometimes mistreated. It is therefore common to have trunks that have undergone one or more restorations.


Because there is no   state diploma " antique dealer " just like " Restorer of trunk " for this reason the profession is plagued by converted handyman. Without any technical background or knowledge of  traditional know-how  and out of greed, to give a little shine to the objects, do irreversible damage to our trunks. Be wary  of autodidacts, youtubers, volunteers, collectors and municipal museums, each has their own job. At Malle2luxe  we have  more diplomas  and years of cumulative studies  than a doctor surgeon. 


A good restoration  is a restoration in the rules of the art, which keeps the authenticity of the trunk and its history, it is a real  added value  of the object. It must be consistent with the existing one. To erase the accidents of course, without deleting its history. Over clumsy treatments and restorations. Very often, in fact, it is by believing that they are doing the right thing that this collectible baggage is distorted. The aim of the restorer is to return the damaged object  to a healthy state., while remaining faithful to its history and preserving the patina acquired over the years. The Restoration of trunk is to go in search of an authenticity that is sometimes lost. We know the history and use of each historic trunk maker in order to best respect the history of its collectible luggage.

Luxury collection trunk buying guide malle2luxe expertise

Today, three principles govern the work of restoring collector's trunks:

  • The restoration must respect the  choice of materials  in accordance with the years of manufacture of the luggage.
  • The restoration must be perennial made with  traditional techniques , those which best respect the object and will hold in time.
  • The restoration must be  reversible

As you will understand throughout this article, not all restorations are of the same value, whether they are preventive or curative. Respect for the  finishes  which are the result of the expertise of the trunk maker are the key to a beautiful restoration.


The finish, also called series, represents the different versions of Louis Vuitton trunks, in other words the choice of materials that dress the trunk. The more brass, the more luxurious and therefore expensive it will be. Steel (tinplate), on the other hand, will lower the price of luggage. The lozines must be in perfect condition.

Finish  Series Score out of 10
Explorer Metal 10/10
Leather and brass   9/10
Clear lozine 1 8/10
Dark Lozine 2 7/10
Upper Moorish (moresque) 3 7/10
All Leather Cow 6/10
Vuittonite Color Vuittonite 5/10
Moorish (moresque) 4 5/10
Black Vuittonite 6 4/10
Lower 5 2/10


serie finition malle ancienne louis Vuitton


laser polishing of brass louis vuitton travel trunk

The more the brasses are oxidized the more work there will be to find the original state and therefore a discount applies, but if your brasses have been brushed an even greater discount will apply because they will be very complicated to find a original finish without mentioning irreversible damageIndeed in terms of polishing we see everything and anything!


Definition :  Polishing  is the action of polishing: treatment that makes a surface smooth and shiny. Aiming to achieve a beautiful appearance, beautiful shine, high quality surface finish.  

We are going to reveal to you how to recognize a good polishing of brass. It is clear that  95% of the polishing on second-hand trunks sold  by antique dealers or second-hand dealers are of very poor quality. On a simple photo it is very difficult to see if the polishing is carried out according to the rules of the art , or if it is massacred with a brush. Because you have to see the reflections from several angles and play with the light.

polishing perfectly shiny collector's item

However, certain details will help you to quickly detect bad polishes. Keep in mind that luxury trunks are small series products made with the greatest attention , by exceptional craftsmen, concerned with detail and quality, just like collectibles:

  • Prestigious watches  Rolex, Patek philippe...
  • Collectible cars Rolls Royce, Ferrari ...
  • High jewelry Cartier , JAR Rosenthal...
  • Silverware renowned  Gustave Keller, Christofle...
before after restoration of vuitton trunk shiny polished brass

Even if these objects are old, even if there is a certain charm in having an  object in  ruins , it is inconceivable for a collector to own a precious, luxury object, scratched by an inadequate restoration, not conforming to the origin. ! Example of a polishing on a very oxidized brass because never cleaned. Perfectly successful surface polishing, carried out in our workshops A  good polish  is a  golden yellow brass , shiny mirror polished, with beautiful reflections

la malle en coin atelier vuitton asnières

Brass at Louis Vuitton has always been brilliant. The initiative to tune the  trunk , by brushing it, making it red or otherwise... is not original. Example of a Louis Vuitton brass during the manufacture of a trunk in the Louis Vuitton workshops in Asnières.


Luxury trunk buying guide - restoration trunk brass polishing louis vuitton old malle2Luxe

The following techniques are detrimental to the price  of your collector's trunk:


For the sake of economy and time, and often out of ignorance, many restorers and dealers use non-traditional techniques to revive brasses. These techniques unfortunately cause damage to these surfaces.


wire brush pickling brass trunk louis vuitton

The use of wire brush , nylon, brass . These brushes intended for stripping old paint on metal are highly detrimental to the brasses of your trunks. Indeed, the use of a brush to revive brasses can:

  • On the one hand damage the cloth adjoining the part to be polished.
  • On the other hand deforms the piece, by breaking the edges which make the finesse of the object and by rounding the whole shape of the object (we call this: "potato effect").
  • This reduces the depth of the engravings because the brush "attacks the material" by removing it.
  • But above all the brush will deeply scratch the brass by forming furrows in the material (as plowed). It will be very hard to re-level damaged surfaces as a result of this damage.

The removed material can no longer be added, it's a real loss, a discount for a collector's trunk! The marks left by a polishing with a wire brush are recognizable by the blurred reflections. Original luxury trunks have shiny polished brass. The novice initiative to brush the brasses is more akin to tuning than to restoration. And you can't really call it polishing.

wire brush mark left on a brass vuitton trunk for sale do not buy bad

There will be the shiny side but we will lose the smooth side essential to a shiny or mirror polish. The brush removes 0.2 to 0.8 millimeters  of material depending on the brushes used. The real know-how of the polisher  is to sublimate by removing as little material as possible, just removing the oxidation is in hundredths of a millimeter (0.01 millimeter).  


Example of marks  left by wire brush polishing.

wire brush mark left on a brass vuitton trunk for sale do not buy bad

Example of brass brushing. Recovery of surfaces in our workshop.

As a result, the brass parts are not deformed, the edges and engravings remain perfectly legible... The brasses will regain their brilliance as on the first day even after 100 years of oxidation!

Perfect laser polishing of a vuitton trunk

Some small impacts due to these many trips remain present because we remove the minimum of material. We are not trying to make them disappear, they are part of the soul of Louis Vuitton luggage. The trunk returns to its original state before its last trip . Example of a quality polishing done in our workshops. Conversely, adding scratches made by the brush adds nothing to the history of the trunk and makes it lose value.

Vuitton trunk lock buying guide

Example of a lock whose surfaces have been massacred with a brush:

  • Deformed surfaces  
  • deep scratches
  • Engravings on the nails erased
  • Remains of oxidation in the recesses and around the nails
  • The adjoining canvas is damaged and stained by the brush.

It's a real loss for the trunk  


Tip - Stain in the corners of the lock: 

Flee this kind of restoration which says a lot about the amateurism of the seller. It is important that the polishing is carried out over the entire surface, even in the recesses. 

Vuitton trunk lock buying guide Louis vuitton


  • Use of maintenance product  :

"Magic mirror" household products are often used.

The greasy formula of these products stains the leather and leaves a whitish deposit on the fabrics, this damage is irreversible on the fabrics.

  • Use of acid  :

Hydrochloric acid-based brass cleaners corrode and often leave irreversible marks on canvas or leather.

  • Varnish the brass:

The  varnish  will slow down the oxidation but will be very delicate to remove without degrading the brass. Wax   or  oil  is ineffective, they will just tarnish the brass by breaking the shiny effect and will be complicated to remove .

coin malle en trunk brass louis vuitton auto trunk car bad

Brass is an alloy composed mainly of copper and zinc. The chemical reaction of the acid on the brass corrodes the zinc, bringing out the copper entering into the composition of the brass. The result is a brass with an uneven reflection. Even after polishing, it will therefore be very difficult to remove these traces and restore the golden yellow color of the polished brass.  


 Example of a Louis Vuitton car trunk, whose brasses are treated with acid. After restoration and polishing of the brasses in our workshops.


mirror polish brass vuitton trunk lazer lasers

Important  : The better the polished surface is executed, the easier it will be to maintain your brasses and preserve their luster and shine. A brushed brass will not be able to maintain the same appearance.


The oxidation of the brass of the trunks is inevitable , they will inevitably turn brown , it is in its nature. There is no solution that lasts and will keep the brass of your trunks shining. Except of course the gilding. The gold would protect the brass from oxidation, but each piece would have to be disassembled, immersed in baths and the brass would lose its shades of color, then becoming uniform, as if frozen.

professional brass maintenance kit by malle2luxe for your collection trunks

  Because there is no miracle, the one and only solution to keep a shiny brass is to clean it regularly with a soft cloth and a suitable maintenance cream. Each of our trunks is sold with a tube of cream for brass maintenance


Professional brass maintenance kit : Available on the shop


vuitton padded interior trunk

The interiors of the trunk are covered with cotton and linen canvas, a very fine, tightly woven canvas with a satin finish. At the time, the interiors were glued with rabbit skin glue or fish glue, this explains the rise of glue which forms brown spots, in case of humidity. The quilting is not made of the same fabric as that which covers the barrel.


The trunks being hermetic, the interiors are very often damaged, because they keep all the humidity. A good restoration is a restoration in conformity with the existing one, an informed eye should not be "shocked" and say to himself "this trunk has been redone, because the interior has nothing to do with the whole".

vuitton padded interior trunk Louis old

The most common errors of bad restoration are: Use of an inappropriate canvas.

  • The canvas of the old trunks is glued over the entire surface.
  • Exposed staples and nails to hold a canvas taut are common DIYs. They are often amateurs who restore themselves, instead of calling on an upholsterer.
  • Use of  synthetic canvas  such as   suede  which is a canvas imitating suede (inner layer of the skin, it can be associated, by synonym, with velvet skin, suede, soft to the touch, matte finish), it is therefore an imitation -leather based on plastic polyester, used in trunk interiors from 1975. It is common to see it in old trunks from 1900, this totally distorts the object.

This technique is common on worthless trunks. It's more boring when the trunk is a Louis Vuitton, a Goyard, a Moynat. Very far from the existing one, this is a discount on a luxury trunk, because the interior will have to be completely redone.

Example of two original restorations Moynat and Louis Vuitton trunk

Example of two original restorations :

  • Automobile trunk from 1900 restored on behalf of  Maison Moynat , the interior patina has been preserved, so as not to erase its history.
  • Louis Vuitton suitcase  leather exterior. Beige canvas interior, a classic. Restored identically. The materials are identical, the techniques used also. 


Vuitton trunk buying guide expert

The padding was intended to protect the contents of the trunk. It is a very important element in a trunk interior. The secret to a beautiful quilting is volume, straight ribbons and diamonds, all of the same size. The nails connecting the ribbons have domed solid brass heads. The original ribbons used are of various weaving patterns and various colors. However they are all 100% natural cotton, with matte reflections.


Polyester ribbons from   the oil industry therefore have no place in the restoration of a collector's trunk.


Their shiny reflections are very easily recognizable and in very  bad taste.

Vuitton trunk buying guide

Example of padding accumulating number of errors:

  • Lack of volume making it all flat.
  • Materials chosen: shiny polyester ribbons, coarse canvas, nails holding inappropriate ribbons.
  •  Lines that do not form diamonds.
  • Golden steel nails (not solid brass)
  • Ribbons protruding from the edges.

We had to redo it in our workshops to find the original state.

interior trunk louis vuitton vuittonite

On this trunk in orange Vuittonite where the interior has been restored in our workshops respecting:

  • The original materials
  • trunk maker's know-how
  • period aesthetics. 


Louis Vuitton mark canvas upholstery

As written in the previous paragraph, the nature  of the finishes  has a strong impact on the value of the luggage. The coating of the canvas has even more. The rarest and most sought-after coverings are those of aluminum explorer trunks , but these are very rare exceptional pieces.


Regarding coated canvas, the most sought-after are those bearing the famous monogram  created by Georges Vuitton , as well as the old checkerboard canvas. There are 3 generations of canvas:

  • Woven canvas 
  • Stencil coated canvas
  • PVC coated canvas (plastic)

The production processes of the fabrics and the modes having evolved over the centuries, the specialists are able from  typography characteristics  to estimate the year of production . Each visible evolution makes it possible to identify editions that we qualify as  Mark Some are more sought after than others and this parameter therefore has an  impact on the selling price  of the trunk. Many collectors like to own a trunk of each Mark in order to have a complete collection representative of the Louis Vuitton production range:

  •  A  duller canvas - Mark 5  is less valuable than a  canvas - Mark 1
  • An  LV stencil canvas  is more sought after and is worth three times more than a trunk with a  PVC canvas .

It's all a matter of demand, the Chinese market demands trunks with a PVC canvas while the Western market loves canvas steeped in history and stencilled with a patina.


The trend we are currently seeing is:

In the attached table we compare fabrics that are in perfect condition

  •  Explorer

The rarest 1st

Copper 2nd
Brass 3rd
Zinc 4th
estimate Louis Vuitton trunk copper brass zinc aluminum old

decoration trunk without stainless steel value

Aviator's trunks in copper, stainless steel, brass, zinc or modern replica are very popular with decorators for a "loft / industrial" atmosphere. These are contemporary trunks that are less than 10 years old. Riding the fashion of the collection and travel trunk, they have no patina, no history. It is in no way a collection trunk. For these reasons these trunks therefore have only a very low value between 200 and 500 euros.

Coating Ranking - searched
  • LV Monogram
LV Monogram - Woven Most Wanted 1st
LV Monogram - Mark I 2nd
LV Monogram - Mark IV 3rd
LV Monogram - Mark II


LV Monogram - Mark VI 5th
LV Monogram - Mark III 6th
LV Monogram - Mark V 7th
LV Monogram - PVC The least wanted 8th
estimate Trunk Louis Vuitton old monogram canvas

  • Other Canvas

Checkerboard - Woven

Most Wanted 1st

Checkerboard - Dark stencil Mark I


Checkerboard - Dark stencil Mark II 3rd
Checkerboard - Tropical Mark I 4th
Checkerboard - Dark stencil Mark II 5th
Striped - Brown and red 6th
Striped - Brown and beige 7th
Rustic - Brown 8th
Gray -  Trianon 9th
estimate Trunk Louis Vuitton old monogram canvas

estimate Trunk Louis Vuitton old monogram canvas

As standard , all  travel  trunks (luxury or popular, rounded  or flat) are  covered to protect the contents from dust, insects and humidity. Old trunks are covered with:

  • cloth
  • leather
  • fabrics
  • parchment
  • paper
  • embossed cardboard
  • metal
  • vulcanized fiber
  • ... Etc
estimate Trunk Louis Vuitton old monogram canvas

There is therefore no curved or flat trunk in raw wood.

Many trunks have been denatured by removing the original canvas to leave the wood visible. There are even forums that explain how to cut canvas and sand wood. Because of this modification, the trunk loses all collection value.

karcher canvas cleaning old trunk wood and canvas DON'T DO!

The exterior fabrics are fragile and precious. Contrary to what can be read in some "amateur" trunk books. They are therefore not restored with a stroke of the karcher The restoration of a canvas is like a painting, it requires patience and meticulousness. IT is important never to apply any product to the canvas, such as varnish, oil or wax. These products will provide instant shine, but in the long run, it's an irreversible disaster. A good restoration consists of restoring the canvas, while remaining faithful to its history, preserving the patina taken over the years.

PRINTED FAUX CANVAS louis vuitton goyard moynat aux etats unis trunks



A new generation of merchant prints canvas

Even worse than the repainted canvas, fake Louis Vuitton checkerboard canvas and fake Goyardine canvas printed on plastic tarpaulin. We have also seen fake canvas printed directly on paper which is then varnished... a plague.


VARNISHED CANVAS - WAXED goyard old trunk



On coated fabrics, the application of an insulating product such as wax or worse, varnish of any kind (glycero, polyester, polyurethane, water, resin, etc.) is a disaster. These products trap grime and make restoration or cleaning impossible. The varnished trunks are therefore condemned, and sometimes cannot be restored.


Example with this magnificent Goyard trunk condemned by poor restoration.


REPAINTED CANVAS Louis Vuitton trunk



The quality of the original canvas on a trunk represents 50 to 90% of the price of a collector's trunk. This practice of partially or totally repainting the Louis Vuitton Damier, Louis Vuitton LV, Goyard, and even Moynat checkerboard canvas is a scourge that we see more and more among less contentious merchants in France and abroad. The state of alert and vigilance is essential. Malle2luxe fights against the destruction of heritage and denounces these practices. Help us protect French heritage.


coin malle toile corner trunk painted canvas louis vuitton Repainted canvas Louis Vuitton

It's a discount of -50% to -70% and making the trunk very hard to resell. Worse than the varnish, the " repaint " which is also called re-tinted, re-pigmented, re-colored, re-coated... In short, the canvas has been repainted! One of the most devastating irreversible techniques on the collectible market. Just like the repainting of old Rolex, Omega, Breguet, Patek Philippe watch dials. It is to kill the soul of the luggage, by removing any patina from it.  

Beware of repainted canvases,  none are spared:

  • trianon
  • United "Vuittonite"
  • Striped Vuitton
  • Checkerboard Vuitton
  • Checkerboard Moynat
  • Monogram LV
  • Monogram Moynat
  • Goyardine

Example of a repainted canvas that loses all collection value:

  • Repainted monogram canvas that can deceive many buyers
  • Monogram canvas; The bottom is cracked but the logo appears like new
  • Red checkered canvas has never been entirely repainted.
corner trunk painted canvas louis vuitton Repainted canvas Louis Vuitton

Example of a partially repainted striped Louis Vuitton trunk.

Beige / Red striped fabrics being  rarer. The red stripes have been repainted over the original beige ones. The original is dark beige/red and not light beige/red.

collection vuitton woven trunk

Tip :

The striped canvas is a woven canvas, so it cannot be coated, if coated it means that it has been repainted.


Example of an original striped canvas trunk, a fine collector's item.

trunk vuitton canvas LV quilted do not buy. discount 80%

Another condemned cabin trunk , the trunks whose canvas is "bitten" by the humidity. This kind of trunk is often "repainted". On the collection value, a damaged canvas is an 80% discount. Example of a "quilted" Louis Vuitton canvas.

  • Vuittonite - plain
Vuitonite (uni) - Red Most Wanted 1st
Vuittonite (uni) - Bordeaux / Green / Beige 2nd
Vuittonite (uni) - Yellow 3rd
Vuittonite (uni) - Orange 4th
Vuittonite (uni) - Brown 5th
Vuittonite (uni) - Black The least rare 6th
vuittonite color estimate Louis Vuitton trunk old monogram canvas

repainted canvas attention old trunk vuitton vuittonite orange yellow

We estimate that  60% of plain trunks  sold by merchants are  partially or totally repainted  , hence the importance of being extremely vigilant. The vuittonite coated canvas, existing in multiple colors. This original canvas grain "shagreen" reminiscent of the grain of leather. Paint can dull the grain of the canvas. It is easy to see the repaint by "black light" lamp.  


Example of original unpainted orange vuittonite coated canvas.


  • Leather
Elephant Most Wanted 1st
Crocodile 2nd
Reptile 3rd
Ostrich 4th
Morocco 5th
Pork 6th
Cowhide 7th
Louis Vuitton trunk in calfskin pig crocodile snake elephant leather

trash vuitton trunk do not buy Leather old

A heavy discount is then to be expected on these trunks to be restored. A "fuzzy" black leather with a marbling effect is a clear sign that it is leather in an " advanced state of putrefaction " which must be changed. Some leather trunks are too damaged.


For example for this trunk, it will be necessary to replace all the leather, which is a heavy and expensive restoration, sometimes more expensive than the price of the restored luggage. These trunks are condemned.

old leather trunk Louis Vuitton collection

Leather is a noble material. It is also a natural material, alive, very fragile and delicate. It does not support humidity and many trunks and suitcases are damaged. Trunks with leather trim are the most sought after. They still have to be in perfect condition. Cracks, lack of leather, cracks,  There is no other alternative than to replace the leather.

superb redone restored leather belt Louis Vuitton malle2luxe expert

Replacing a leather element is an important restoration because they are fixed by hundreds of nails that will have to be removed. It will be necessary to sheathe these elements with leather and rivet everything as originally. The choice of leather, like the hot stampings are essential in order to be faithful to the origin and to patinate it to obtain the perfect color. This is the only solution to preserve its heritage and pass it on.


 Example of a partial repair of the leather on this Vuitton wardrobe trunk.


Leather has always been used for its extraordinary mechanical properties. But the characteristics of it can be altered over the years. It is common for the handles to be torn off, broken.

Some unscrupulous restorers mix acrylic silicone Louis Vuitton trunk bad solution

Some unscrupulous restorers mix acrylic silicone with leather powder to create a tab and fill in the holes and lack of leather. A misery cache is, of course, DIY. So be careful to inspect the leathers of the trunk you are looking for. 

do not buy poor quality low-end handles

"Cheap" handle in sheepskin leather (sheepskin)

It is a very low-end "soft" leather, these handles are easily recognizable by its poor quality seams (machine stitching) and the non-existence of the marking border like the originals. With a low-end finish.


Miscellaneous examples of non-original grip.

Vintage fake couture trunk and suitcase buying guide

Many times we have seen seams called "saddle stitch" but which are obviously not. These points are reserved for the neophyte. Here are some examples:

A: Backstitch  

B: Double front stitch  

C: Unnamed

These seams are not seams, at best handmade lacings made outside the rules of the art and without comparison with the saddle stitch. 

thick vegetable leather handle for louis vuitton trunk


At Louis Vuitton, Goyard and Moynat the handles are in vegetable tanned cowhide (VVN), decorative hot stamping. Thick handles.


Some examples of several handles made in our workshops to restore collectible luggage. Hand sewn, weathered and aged to fit perfectly.


Lozine Louis Vuitton trunk expert

Lozine:  Material obtained by stratification of cotton and cellulose fiber, after passing through a bath of zinc chloride and sulfuric acid. The fluid is extracted by pressing, which makes it possible to bind the different fibers together  without adding binder. Thanks to this process, the lozine has extremely high mechanical strength, flexibility and stability, combined with low weight. Perfectly insulating, the lozine guarantees perfect sealing of the luggage. Modern lozine Louis Vutton... read our article dedicated to the lozine

Lozine Louis Vuitton trunk expert

Example of an unrestored lozine from an old Louis Vuitton Louis Vuitton trunk. They exist in several colors according to the series  and according to the eras, with different markings. Some first black series are unmarked.


Check that they have not been repainted.

Lozine Louis Vuitton trunk expert fake flexoid

Not to be confused with flexoid - Oil resistant jointing.

Sold by some as lozine, this product is used in the automotive industry for its resistance to engine oil impregnation. Paper fibers impregnated with a gelatinous binder and plasticizer, low cost around 9 euros / M2

This modern low-end product has no place in the restoration of old collection trunks.


hardware jewelry not genuine vuitton brass

In the long list of possible discounts is the replacement of original parts signed by the manufacturer.


Example on this Louis Vuitton trunk,

or the clasps have been replaced by a generic spare part.

adaptable spare part generic replica trunk old vuitton collection copy

The "generic" pieces  of modern manufacture are ideal for making your decorative trunk. But those spare parts,  which design is not the original one.


Please note that there are also copies reproduced without agreement with the brands,  they are not authentic and the quality is different from the original. These copies  are  detrimental  to the rating of your  collector's trunk .

DIY luxury trunk buying guide no screws corner luggage

As in the middle of the restoration of furniture and antiques. The restoration must be done with  traditional techniques,  sometimes slower, but more reliable, because they respect the object better. For example, the use of visible or hidden screws is excluded. This is incompatible with the know-how of traditional trunk makers.

These techniques considerably devalue the value of the trunk.

wood pulp goyard trunk wood hole

During a restoration, the use of resin glue and other modern chemicals is to be avoided. The materials and products used must be in accordance with the year of the luggage to be restored. 


Wood filler  fills holes, cracks but will not strengthen the barrel or wooden slats. Only a structural recovery, the purpose of which is to replace the damaged wood, is a lasting restoration. We therefore never use wood putty on the restorations of our trunks.


car trunk louis vuitton collection purchase

And finally to finish, "the  Pompon " is to combine bad taste &  customization, called "trunk tuning" the discounts are non-respect:

  • Original design
  • Colours
  • Materials

Do not confuse customization with "authentic themed trunk" produced by its manufacturer. Example, this picnic trunk from the 1910s made by Louis Vuitton and of great collector value.

wardrobe vuitton

Example of a "themed trunk", made by Louis Vuitton. Interior has been redone in our workshops. Layout conforming to the original, design, color, finish, made with materials of the same nature (leather, coated canvas, wood, nails). This Louis Vuitton wardrobe trunk retains its collection rating. Discover this restoration.


FRANKENSTEIN Louis Vuitton trunk old free expertise

All the STEEL parts (corner, bracket, lock, clasp, border, roller...) of a Louis Vuitton trunk are  lacquered in black  or gold, there are no raw or polished parts because the steel will rust.


Medieval finish - Rustic

More and more often, bad sellers customize their low and mid-range Moorish finish Louis Vuitton trunks to make them look like high-end aluminum edge finish trunks.

It is a customization that consists of brushing the steel to remove the original black lacquer and reveal the white metal.


In the first case we are on the "low-end" Moorish version of the brand, in the second in aluminum it is the "ultra high-end" aluminum version. Brushing is detrimental to the rating of your trunk, as is customization, which distorts the original condition

FRANKENSTEIN Louis Vuitton trunk old free expertise alzer

This Alzer Louis Vuitton suitcase that has been fitted with wooden slats to look like a trunk . This modification completely devalues the suitcase. 


ASSEMBLIES OF REAL PARTS Louis Vuitton trunk fake

Called Frankenstein, this trunk is an assembly of real pieces from different periods (lock, handles, clasps), with new PVC canvas. No collectible value. There is no Louis Vuitton trunk with leather trim and steel corner.


hotel label on fake goyard trunk

Another example of a customized trunk, hotel labels, are most of the time real hotel labels stuck on to hide defects, sometimes they are downright fake (printed with a printer). Increasingly used by merchants. The labels are rare and never in good condition, because screen-printed on low-end paper, the color tarnished and the paper does not support humidity (reversible glue like postage stamps). There are almost never any on the front of the trunk (lock side), nor on the back. They are found mainly on the sides and sometimes on the top in small numbers, but very very rarely.

We find that 70% of the labels are added, to facilitate the sale , by hiding defects, or just to invent a story.


initials on luggage personalization vuitton trunk

The personalization of the canvas with colored bands has been used since the appearance of the first Louis Vuitton, Goyard and Moynat luggage. This allowed its owners to quickly locate their luggage on carts, cars, stagecoaches, cruise ships, station platforms...

Similarly, personalization with initials, logos, coats of arms and crowns does not reduce the value of the luggage. They don't win either, unless they prove membership in a famous person, or nobility.

Fake strips stables vuitton trunk

On the other hand when they are redone and not original, they are a real loss.  

We estimate that 70% of the so-called "stable" bands on trunks purchased second-hand over the past 15 years are counterfeit.


We estimate that 98% of crowns or coats of arms are counterfeit.

These decorations have the sole purpose of misleading the buyer to create a story for the trunk and make it more "authentic" and attractive. Beware of good stories...

Fake strips stables vuitton trunk

Example of a painting on a modern trunk, independently of the artistic side, this one greatly depreciates this leather trunk.


If modern trunk customization can be elegant, modern customization on old collection trunks to modernize it and make it more attractive for sale is to be banned, often paintings as well as labels hiding defects...




An estimate is  free  and can be done by anyone. It is not binding, many amateurs engage in this exercise producing estimates which therefore have  no value.



An expertise is a  paid service  that engages the writing, it is not done on photos because the defects are too numerous.


certificate of authenticity louis vuitton trunk

The certificate of authenticity is not subject  to any regulations . No law confers any value on it. Just like the estimate, everyone can deliver it. The value of the certificate is based above all on the credibility of its author (competence, respectability, notoriety, link that he may have with the author, etc.). Only a Louis Vuitton certificate would have value. Except Louis Vuitton does not produce any certificate for its bags, trunks, small leather goods...


So if a seller offers you a certificate of authenticity or worse to make you beware, he will not guarantee that the item is not a Louis Vuitton Counterfeit.


Bill trunk Louis Vuitton old

Buying with an  invoice , and not paying cash, there are many scams as you will discover throughout this article. The invoice protects you in the event of a stolen object, and will allow you to better resell your trunk if the seller has a good reputation on the luxury trunk market. This invoice on the other hand  does not guarantee the authenticity  of the trunk, nor the good restoration. Because not all sellers have a good reputation, beware especially of those who offer certificates of authenticity and free estimates, both of which have no value.


Expert advisor Malle louis vuitton

Expert advice on Louis Vuitton trunks. Our clients benefit from an  exclusive advice service FREE OF CHARGE  . Our customers have the possibility of sending us photos of trunks that they wish to acquire (seen with colleagues, in the auction room, etc.) in order to benefit from a reactive advice service to enable them to constitute a prestigious collection of quality. We buy your trunks at the best prices.



We are in the best position to  buy your Louis Vuitton, Goyard, Moynat trunks , whatever the condition.

Example of trunk we bought
Example of trunk we bought


*These observations contained are the conclusions of results in auction rooms around the world, the opinion of experts and collectors of old luxury trunks.


Expertise : page en francais