WHAT SERIES ? QUALITIES OF OLD LOUIS VUITTON TRUNKS

The "Louis Vuitton trunk series" refers to a classification system used since 1892 by the French luxury house Louis Vuitton to offer travel trunks of varying qualities, durability, and price ranges. These series, numbering eight in 1914, were designed to cater to the diverse budgets of the clientele.

Each trunk series features distinct characteristics in terms of materials (leather, steel, brass), design, finishes, and accessories. Trunks from the highest series are typically crafted from the finest materials, featuring subtle details and impeccable finishes, making them highly coveted collector's items among luxury luggage enthusiasts.

Conversely, trunks from the lower series might be made from slightly lower-quality materials and could have less intricate finishes, but they still represent quality products.

In summary, the Louis Vuitton trunk series allows the brand to offer luxury luggage suited to different budget levels while maintaining high standards of quality and style that are characteristic of the house's reputation.

Excerpt from the 1914 Louis Vuitton catalog written by Georges Vuitton:

Regardless of the amount one desires to spend on a trunk, we can always provide a durable item: Louis Vuitton trunks exist in eight different qualities.

Although there are numerous special cases, here are the main ones:

The "all leather" series, also known as the "Vache" series in 1914, represented the pinnacle of luxury of its time. As the name suggests, each trunk in this series was entirely covered in leather. The high price of these trunks was justified by the choice of high-quality materials, especially leather, as well as the expensive craftsmanship required to work with this material, particularly for hand-sewn saddle stitching.

However, these trunks had a major drawback: the premium materials used for the exterior were extremely fragile, and even the slightest drop of water could cause a stain. Additionally, the leather lost its mechanical properties over time, becoming dry and tearing at the handles and hinges.

Despite being the most expensive product of its time, they are not the most coveted by collectors because beautiful patinas are becoming increasingly rare. A beautiful patina is recognized by the uniformity of the leather color and the overall beauty displayed by the trunk. A trunk whose leather has become too dark due to weathering will be less appreciated than a trunk whose leather has retained a light or medium brown tone, for example.

Similar to the Vuittonite series, the Tout Cuir series does not have wooden slats, even for large surfaces such as secretaries or old high wardrobes.

The fully leather series is still available, but only on special order. Therefore, it is produced in very small quantities, almost anecdotal.

Features:

• Some trunks have copper nails
• Most expensive version in the Louis Vuitton catalog at the time
• Some assembly parts are stitched or nailed
• Quilting
• Bottom wheels
• Strap pass (or buckle)
• Leather handles
• Leather: 1st choice cowhide

Edges and corners: Cowhide

Locks, clasps: Polished brass

Lining: Glued beige fabric

Note: The most luxurious and expensive finish offered by Louis Vuitton in the catalog.

Excerpt from the 1914 Louis Vuitton catalog:

Vache series: entirely covered in high-quality cowhide leather, sewn and riveted, brass fittings.

This is the ultimate luxury trunk. Mainly used for overseas travel, their unparalleled solidity, lightweight, and elegance provide the traveler with the maximum possible security. Lined with white canvas, the frames are fitted with straps and our patented toggle buckle, complemented by our safety lock with wards and equipped with wheels and a strap.

Note: In certain small sizes, we have omitted the wheels and strap.

The Vuittonite series is characterized by its leather borders, handles, and corners, as well as the exterior covering of the trunk with a colored canvas called Vuittonite. It's important to note that it should not be confused with an automobile trunk, which is also covered with Vuittonite canvas, most often in a dark color to match the vehicle.

What distinguishes the Vuittonite Series is its contemporary and streamlined approach. Unlike traditional trunks, it does not feature wooden slats, except in special cases of large surfaces such as secretary trunks or wardrobe trunks. Additionally, it does not have brass corners and does not display any monogram patterns or ostentatious signs. In summary, the Vuittonite Series aims to be distinctly minimalist while offering interiors of the same quality as the brand's high-end models (series 1).

Features:

• Leather border
• Leather corners
• Almost never wooden slats
• Quilting
• Bottom wheels
• Strap pass (or buckle) Very distinctive design, unique to Vuittonite trunks
• Leather handles

Canvas: Extra-strong solid-colored canvas called Vuittonite

Borders and corners: Cowhide leather

Locks, clasps, brackets: Polished brass

Lining: Glued beige fabric

Note: Some models of Vuittonite trunks have lozine or steel borders and brass or steel corners, however, in most cases, they are as described above.

Excerpt from the 1914 Louis Vuitton catalog:

Vuittonite series: plain Vuittonite exterior, brass and leather fittings. Mainly used for overseas travel, their unparalleled solidity, lightweight, and elegance provide the traveler with the maximum possible security. Lined with white canvas, the frames are fitted with straps and our patented toggle buckle, complemented by our safety lock with wards and equipped with wheels and a strap.

Note: In certain small sizes, we have omitted the wheels and strap.

The Louis Vuitton trunk from the leather and brass series, also referred to as the 1st series BEFORE 1914, is the most coveted version among collectors. It is easily identifiable by its polished solid brass handles and is characterized by the presence of leather borders, which develop an exceptional patina in response to water, UV rays, and storage conditions. These unique patinas give the trunk an incomparable charm, making it a highly sought-after item among enthusiasts of high-quality vintage pieces.

Features:

• Leather border
• Always brass corners
• Quilting
• Bottom wheels
• Strap pass (or buckle)
• Brass handles
• Zinc bottom (sometimes)

Canvas: Extra-strong canvas, Trianon, Striped, Damier, or Monogram LV.

Border: Cowhide leather

Locks, clasps, corners, and brackets: Polished brass

Lining: Glued beige fabric

The Louis Vuitton trunk from the clear lozine series, also referred to as the 1st series AFTER 1914, represents the most luxurious version in monogram canvas up to that date. It is distinguished by the presence of leather handles and its lock, corners, and brackets made of polished solid brass. The advantage of this material is that it doesn't rust, even after two centuries, and can regain its original shiny state. Polished brass offers remarkable contrast and brightness, adding a touch of timeless elegance to this iconic trunk.

Features:

• Clear lozine
• Always brass corners
• Quilting
• Bottom wheels
• Strap pass (or buckle)
• Leather handles

Canvas: Extra-strong Monogram LV canvas.

Border: Clear lozine: light brown or orange depending on the periods, signed "LV"

Locks, clasps, corners, and brackets: Polished brass

Lining: Glued beige fabric

Excerpt from the 1914 Louis Vuitton catalog:

1st series: Superior canvas exterior, brass and leather fittings, yellow lozine. Mainly used for overseas travel, their unparalleled solidity, lightweight, and elegance provide the traveler with the maximum possible security. Lined with white canvas, the frames are fitted with straps and our patented toggle buckle, complemented by our safety lock with wards and equipped with wheels and a strap.

Note: In certain small sizes, we have omitted the wheels and strap.

The Louis Vuitton trunk from the dark lozine series, also referred to as the 2nd series in 1914, is often confused with the 3rd series. The main difference lies in the finishing of the borders, made of lozine instead of lacquered steel. Around 1920, on trunks covered with monogram canvas, only two series remained: the dark lozine and the light lozine. From the 1960s onward, the "dark lozine" series would no longer be produced.

Features:

• Dark lozine
• Always lacquered steel corners and brackets
• May have quilting
• Strap pass (or buckle)
• Steel handle

Canvas: Extra-strong Monogram LV canvas.

Border: Black lozine or dark brown lozine

Lock: Polished brass

Clasps: Brass or lacquered steel

Corners and brackets: Lacquered steel

Lining: Glued beige fabric

Excerpt from the 1914 Louis Vuitton catalog:

2nd series: Extra-strong canvas exterior, brass, iron, and black lozine fittings. Mainly used for overseas travel, their unparalleled solidity, lightweight, and elegance provide the traveler with the maximum possible security. Lined with white canvas, the frames are fitted with straps and our patented toggle buckle, complemented by our safety lock with wards and equipped with wheels and a strap.

Note: In certain small sizes, we have omitted the wheels and strap.

The Louis Vuitton trunk from the loziné series is a unique range that has merged the "dark lozine" and "light lozine" series since the 1960s, forming a single series renamed "lozine." This exceptional series features a lozine shade that falls between light and dark, displaying a medium brown color. Moreover, in this range, all the fittings are exclusively made of brass, marking an evolution from the "light lozine" series, while the "dark lozine" series, with its steel fittings, has completely disappeared.

Other series such as "moresque," "moresque supérieur," "leather and brass," and "colored Vuittonite" have all disappeared for years. The lozine series remains a unique series.

Features:

• Lozine
• Brass corners
• Quilting
• Bottom wheels or dome
• Leather handles

Canvas: Extra-strong Monogram LV canvas.

Border: Light lozine: brown in different periods, signed "LV"

Locks, clasps, corners, and brackets: Polished brass

Lining: Glued beige fabric or Vuittonite

Excerpt from the 1983 Louis Vuitton catalog:

Lozine: Rigid series with fittings (or protective bands) on all edges. Copper corners, buckles, locks, and all fittings. Personalized safety lock with a strictly personal number. Leather handle. Washable canvas interior.

The Louis Vuitton trunk from the superior moresque series, also known as the 3rd series in 1914, is often confused with the 4th series. The main difference lies in the presence of lacquered corners in the lower part of the trunk, as well as in the patented polished brass lock with a single key. This series was the best-selling in 1914.

It was later replaced by the "dark lozine" series in the 1920s.

Features:

• Bottom wheels
• Strap pass (or buckle)
• Quilting

Canvas: Extra-strong Damier, plain Vuittonite, or Monogram LV canvas.

Border: Moresque also known as steel border.

Lock: Polished brass

Lining: Glued beige fabric

Excerpt from the 1914 Louis Vuitton catalog:

3rd series: Strong canvas exterior, iron fittings, copper lock, wheels, strap, light gray canvas lining.

Particularly used for travels in Europe, where they yield excellent results.

The Louis Vuitton trunk from the moresque series, also known as the 4th series in 1914, represents the entry-level luxury trunks. It is distinguished by simple details that allow identification, such as its patented steel lock with a standard key and, in most cases, triangular corners at the bottom of the trunk, features often confused with the "lower series." It was later replaced by the "dark lozine" series in the 1920s.

Features:

• No corners at the bottom
• No quilting
• No bottom wheels
• No strap pass (or buckle)

Canvas: Extra-strong Damier, plain Vuittonite, or Monogram LV canvas.

Border: Moresque also known as steel border.

Clasps, corners, lock: Lacquered steel

Lining: Glued beige fabric

Excerpt from the 1914 Louis Vuitton catalog:

4th series: Canvas exterior, all iron fittings, gray canvas lining. Particularly used for travels in Europe where they yield excellent results.

The Louis Vuitton trunk from the lower series, also known as the 5th series in 1914, falls halfway between a trunk from the 4th series and a chest (raw series).

It is overlooked by collectors due to its archaic construction, the use of flat slats, and the notable absence of distinctive and high-quality details and finishes that have contributed to the success of the luxury house. While it may bear a superficial resemblance to a Louis Vuitton trunk, it lacks the distinctive features that have built the prestigious reputation of the brand.

Features:

• Flat box slats
• No quilting
• Unbranded nails (*Louis Vuitton)
• No bottom wheels
• No strap pass (or buckle)

Canvas: Trianon, plain Vuittonite, or light Damier canvas

Border: Moresque also known as steel border.

Inner lining: Glued paper

Excerpt from the 1914 Louis Vuitton catalog:

5th series: Sturdy trunks, though simple in appearance, providing good service; widely used as packing trunks. Yellow checkered canvas.

Louis Vuitton trunk black series, also known as the 6th series in 1914, was a specific finish used in the commercial range. It is important to note that it should not be confused with the brand's automobile range.

Features:

• No quilting
• No bottom wheels

Canvas: Black Vuittonite

Border: Lozine or moresque

Lock and hardware: Lacquered black steel

Inner lining: Beige canvas

Excerpt from the 1914 Louis Vuitton catalog:

6th series: Sturdy trunks, though simple in appearance, providing good service; widely used as packing trunks. Black canvas.

The production of this type of raw-finished chest came to a definitive end after the death of Louis Vuitton in 1892. These untreated wooden chests, crafted using very ancient methods, were primarily intended to serve as packaging for specific items.

These chests, lacking exterior canvas, display a rustic and authentic appearance. Inside, they were lined with glued paper, adding a touch of simplicity to their design. They represent Louis Vuitton's early creations when he worked as a layetier emballeur for Monsieur Maréchal.

However, due to their aesthetically unappealing and purely practical design, these chests have very little collectible value. It is crucial to remember that sought-after collectibles not only need to be functional but also aesthetically pleasing. Unfortunately, this is not the case with this type of chest. Their rudimentary simplicity and lack of elaborate details make them items devoid of visual charm, relegating them to strictly utilitarian use without the aesthetic allure sought by collectors.

Specifications:

• Exterior: Raw wood without canvas.
• Interior: Glued paper.

Note:

Not to be confused with altered trunks where the original canvas has been removed.

These customized trunks have no value.